Old Dubai is the two banks of Dubai Creek, Deira and Bur Dubai, where the city began as a trading port and where it still trades: gold and spices on the Deira side, textiles, the wind-tower lanes of Al Fahidi and the Creek-side terraces of Al Seef on the Bur Dubai side, with wooden abras crossing between them for AED 1-2. It is the one district you walk, it costs almost nothing, and it is best from about 4 PM into the evening. This guide gives the Green Line stations, the souks and how to shop them, the abra, and the half-day loop we run for our own guests.
By SB Excursions · Published 15 September 2026 · Updated 23 October 2026
Tour on this route: Full-Day Desert Safari in Dubai — From $45 per person, 7 hours.
Is Old Dubai worth visiting, and how long do you need?
Yes, and half a day is enough: about 3:30 PM to 9 PM covers Al Fahidi, the Textile Souk, the AED 1-2 abra across the Creek, the Spice and Gold souks and dinner at Al Seef, all on foot from the Green Line stations. It costs almost nothing: the lanes and souks are free to walk, the abra is AED 1-2 each way and Metro fares are AED 3-7.5. Go in the late afternoon and evening, not in the midday heat.
This guide also answers:
- Which Metro station is closest to the Gold Souk?
- How much does the abra cost and where do you catch it?
- Can I stay in Old Dubai and still do the desert safari and the Abu Dhabi tour?
The six things worth your time in Old Dubai
#1
Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood
Restored coral-and-gypsum houses with wind towers in a grid of shaded lanes, galleries and courtyard cafés, and the Coffee Museum with its brass dallahs and old roasting pans. Free to walk, best after 4 PM when the light drops into the lanes; Sharaf DG station on the Green Line is a short walk away.
#2
The Textile Souk and the abra station
The covered timber arcade of the Bur Dubai side: pashminas, scarves, bolts of silk and cotton, tailors who will copy a garment, and the abra station at the end of it. Haggling is expected and polite, so counter-offer with a smile, and keep small notes for the AED 1-2 crossing to Deira.
#3
The Gold Souk
The covered gold arcade in Deira near Al Ras station: window after window of necklaces and bangles priced by weight at the day's gold rate plus a making charge, which is where the negotiation happens. Look, weigh, compare two or three shops; nobody minds. The evening crowd and the lit windows are part of the experience.
#4
The Spice Souk
Sacks of dried limes, chillies, cinnamon bark, frankincense and saffron in the lanes between the Deira abra station and the Gold Souk. Small, quick and aromatic: buy saffron by the gram and ask for a sealed pack, taste the dates before you buy, and walk on to the gold in five minutes.
#5
Al Seef
The newer heritage-style waterfront on the Bur Dubai bank: lantern-lit lanes of coral-stone buildings, wind towers and café terraces along the Creek. It is where Old Dubai has dinner. Come at dusk, walk the promenade as the dhows and abras pass, and take a table facing the Deira lights. Free unless you eat.
#6
Dubai Frame, the add-on
The gold picture frame in Zabeel Park, with Old Dubai on one side of its glass-floored bridge and the new skyline on the other. Tickets are about AED 50; we can book it on request on WhatsApp. It is worth an hour on a second afternoon; with one afternoon only, the souks and the abra come first.
Old Dubai in three sentences, and who it is for
Old Dubai is the two banks of Dubai Creek, Deira on the north side and Bur Dubai on the south, where the city started as a trading port. Deira has the Gold Souk and the Spice Souk; Bur Dubai has the Textile Souk, the wind-tower lanes of Al Fahidi and the Creek-side promenade of Al Seef; the two are joined by the abras, the wooden water taxis that cross the Creek for AED 1-2. It is the one part of Dubai that is walked rather than driven, and it is at its best in the late afternoon and evening.
It suits the visitor who wants a Dubai that is not a mall or a tower: anyone who likes markets, street food and photographs of real streets, and anyone on a budget, because the hotels here usually cost less than the same star rating on the beach or in Downtown. It suits less well the beach-first visitor: the sea at JBR is about 35 km away, and the Marina, where our yacht cruises leave, is about an hour by Metro.
Below: the Green Line stations that put you in the right lane, the souks and how to shop them, the abra, Al Fahidi and Al Seef, a half-day plan we give our own guests, and what staying here means for the desert safari and the Abu Dhabi day, both of which collect you at your Old Dubai hotel.
Getting there: the Green Line stations
The Green Line of the Dubai Metro was built for this district. It runs along both banks of the Creek, and every sight in this guide is within a 5-15 minute walk of a station. Station sponsor names change from time to time, so navigate by the area names below. Deira is the district next to DXB airport, which makes Old Dubai the cheapest airport transfer in the city.
| Station (Green Line) | Bank | What it is for |
|---|---|---|
| Al Ras | Deira | Gold Souk and Spice Souk, 5-10 minutes on foot; the Deira abra stations |
| Baniyas Square | Deira | Deira's old commercial centre, hotels, an alternative walk to the Gold Souk |
| Union | Deira | Interchange with the Red Line from the airport and Downtown |
| BurJuman | Bur Dubai | Interchange with the Red Line from the Marina and Downtown |
| Sharaf DG | Bur Dubai | Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, the Coffee Museum, Al Seef |
| Al Ghubaiba | Bur Dubai | The Textile Souk, the Bur Dubai abra station, the bus station for the E100 to Abu Dhabi |
Fares are AED 3-7.5 by zone on a Silver Nol card (about AED 25 including AED 19 of credit); a red paper ticket costs about AED 2 plus the fare.
By taxi from Downtown, Bur Dubai is about 10 km and 15-25 minutes outside rush hour; budget roughly AED 30-40 on the meter. From the Marina or JBR it is the long run, similar to the airport run in the opposite direction, about 35 km and around AED 80-110, so take the Metro instead: Red Line to BurJuman, change to the Green Line, about an hour. From DXB Terminals 1 and 3 the Red Line reaches Union in a few stops; change there for Al Ras and Baniyas Square, or at BurJuman for Sharaf DG. The Nol card, the Gold Class carriage and the women-and-children section are explained in our Dubai Metro guide.
The three souks and how to shop them
The souks are markets first and attractions second, which is why they work. The Gold Souk in Deira, five to ten minutes from Al Ras station, is a covered arcade of jewellers where gold is priced by weight at the day's rate plus a making charge; the rate is fixed, the making charge is where you negotiate, and comparing two or three windows is expected. The Spice Souk is the lanes between the Deira abra station and the gold: sacks of dried limes, chillies, cinnamon, frankincense and saffron sold by the gram. The Textile Souk across the water, next to the Bur Dubai abra station, is pashminas, silks, cottons and tailors under a timber arcade.
Timing matters more here than anywhere else in Dubai. The souks are quiet and hot in the early afternoon, and some shops close for a couple of hours after lunch; from about 4 PM the lights come on, the traders are back and the Creek breeze makes the lanes pleasant. Friday mornings are slow, with many shops opening only in the afternoon.
- Haggle, politely. A counter-offer is expected in the Textile and Spice souks; in the Gold Souk negotiate the making charge, not the gold rate.
- Carry small notes. AED 5 and AED 10 notes for the abra, tea and small spice purchases; cards work in the gold shops.
- Photograph the goods, ask before the people. Never photograph traders or shoppers, women in particular, without consent.
- Dress for the district. Shoulders and knees covered is the polite standard in Old Dubai; our dress code guide has the detail for mosques, the desert and the yachts.
- Saffron and gold have grades. Ask for sealed saffron packs, and for gold ask for the receipt that shows the weight and purity.
The abra: AED 1-2 across the Creek
The abra is the best AED 1-2 you will spend in Dubai. The wooden boats shuttle between the Bur Dubai abra station by the Textile Souk and the Deira stations by the Spice Souk in a few minutes, leaving when they fill, and you pay the boatman on board. There is no timetable to check and no ticket to buy: step down, sit on the bench, hold your bag.
Cross in both directions, once in daylight and once after dark. The daylight crossing shows the dhows and the wind towers; the night crossing shows the lit Deira bank and the minarets. A boatman will also quote a private hire for a slow loop of the Creek; agree the price and the time before you board, and it is still one of the cheaper boat trips in the city.
For the other Dubai from the water, the towers instead of the dhows, our shared yacht hour leaves the marina pier behind Al Majara Tower in Dubai Marina from $32 per person, hourly, with a photo stop in front of Ain Dubai. It is about an hour from Old Dubai by Metro, so give it a Marina afternoon rather than squeezing it into the Creek day.
Al Fahidi, Al Seef and the Creek after dark
Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood is the restored quarter of coral-stone houses and wind towers between Sharaf DG station and the Creek. The lanes are shaded and quiet, the houses hold galleries, small museums and courtyard cafés, and the Coffee Museum inside the quarter tells the story of Arabic coffee with brass dallahs and old roasting pans. Entry to the lanes is free and the museums and cafés are cheap; an hour is enough, two if you sit down.
Al Seef is the newer waterfront along the Bur Dubai bank, built in the same heritage style with lanterns, wind towers and café terraces facing the water. It is where Old Dubai has dinner. Come at dusk, walk the promenade as the abras and dhows pass, and take a table facing the Deira lights; nothing here costs more than a walk unless you eat.
Dubai Frame, in Zabeel Park a short taxi from Bur Dubai, is the optional add-on: the gold picture frame with Old Dubai on one side of its glass bridge and the new skyline on the other. Tickets are about AED 50, and we can book it on request on WhatsApp; drop it if you have only one afternoon, because the souks and the abra come first. More free and near-free options across the city are in best free things to do in Dubai.
A half-day plan: 3:30 PM to 9 PM
This is the loop we give guests who have one afternoon for the Creek. It runs against the heat and with the light: lanes first, souks at the golden hour, dinner on the water. Sunset is about 5:30 PM in December and about 7:10 PM in June, so shift the middle steps to match.
- 3:30 PM, Sharaf DG station. Walk into the Al Fahidi lanes, the Coffee Museum and a courtyard café; 60-75 minutes.
- 4:45 PM, Textile Souk. Along the Creek to the covered arcade: scarves, a look at the tailors, 30 minutes.
- 5:15 PM, abra to Deira. AED 1-2, a few minutes on the water, straight into the Spice Souk lanes.
- 5:45 PM, Gold Souk. Five to ten minutes' walk from the spices; the windows are lit and the traders are back; 45 minutes.
- 6:45 PM, abra back to Bur Dubai. The night crossing, with the Deira bank lit behind you.
- 7:15 PM, Al Seef. Fifteen minutes' walk along the Creek to the promenade; dinner facing the water.
- 9 PM, home. Ten minutes back to Sharaf DG station, or a taxi from the Al Seef ranks.
In summer, from May to September, run the same loop from 8:30 AM and finish with lunch at Al Seef by 12:30 PM, before the afternoon heat, or push the start to 5 PM and eat later. Old Dubai in daylight in August is not enjoyable; after dark it is.
Staying in Old Dubai, and our tours from here
Old Dubai is the budget base and the culture base, and the closest district to DXB. Deira has the older hotels, the souks and the airport at its shoulder; Bur Dubai has Al Fahidi, Al Seef, the Textile Souk and the Indian and Pakistani restaurants of Meena Bazaar, and it is the slightly quieter side. The two are compared hotel by hotel in Deira vs Bur Dubai.
| Traveller | Verdict | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Budget travellers | Stay here | Usually the lowest hotel prices for the star rating in Dubai, cheap food, the Metro at the door |
| Culture and markets | Stay here | Everything in this guide on foot, the Creek at night, Sharjah's museums 15-25 km away |
| Short stays and layovers | Deira | The airport is next door: Red Line to Union in a few stops |
| Beach-first | JBR, the Marina or the Palm | The nearest resort beaches are 15-35 km away |
| Burj Khalifa and the Fountain first | Downtown or Business Bay | Downtown is about 10 km: easy by Metro from BurJuman, not on foot |
| Nightlife | The Marina or Downtown | Old Dubai has licensed hotel bars and little else once the souks close |
Both of our big days start at the hotel door, wherever it is. The full-day desert safari collects you in an air-conditioned 4x4 from any Deira or Bur Dubai hotel and drives 45-60 minutes to the Lahbab Red Dunes: dune bashing, sandboarding, a camel ride, sunset, then dinner and the shows at Al Khayma camp, from $45 per person with no prepayment. The Abu Dhabi city tour picks up at 8:00 AM for the Grand Mosque, the BAPS Mandir, the Corniche and Heritage Village, from $45 shared or $245 for a private car for up to 7, also paid on the day; from Deira the drive to the mosque is a little longer than from the Marina, so be in the lobby on time. If you would rather go by bus, the E100 to Abu Dhabi leaves from Al Ghubaiba, about 2 hours and about AED 25 with a Nol card, but the mosque is then a further taxi on the other side.
Where Old Dubai fits against the other districts, by traveller type and with the pickup logistics for our tours, is in where to stay in Dubai for a first trip; the district at the other end of the Metro, with the Burj and the Fountain, is in our Downtown area guide.
FAQ
Is Old Dubai worth visiting, and how long do you need?
Yes, and half a day is enough: about 3:30 PM to 9 PM covers Al Fahidi, the Textile Souk, the AED 1-2 abra across the Creek, the Spice and Gold souks and dinner at Al Seef, all on foot from the Green Line stations. It costs almost nothing: the lanes and souks are free to walk, the abra is AED 1-2 each way and Metro fares are AED 3-7.5. Go in the late afternoon and evening, not in the midday heat.
Which Metro station is closest to the Gold Souk?
Al Ras on the Green Line, a 5-10 minute walk; Baniyas Square is the alternative. Coming from the Red Line, change at Union. From the Bur Dubai side the nicer way is the abra from the Textile Souk station across to Deira, then a walk through the Spice Souk to the gold, which takes about ten minutes.
How much does the abra cost and where do you catch it?
AED 1-2 per person, paid to the boatman on board; carry coins or small notes. The Bur Dubai station is at the end of the Textile Souk, near Al Ghubaiba Metro; the Deira stations are by the Spice Souk, near Al Ras. Boats leave when they fill, every few minutes, and the crossing takes a few minutes. A private loop of the Creek is quoted on the spot; agree the price before boarding.
What is the difference between Deira and Bur Dubai?
They are the two banks of the Creek. Deira, on the north side, has the Gold Souk, the Spice Souk, the older hotels and the airport next door. Bur Dubai, on the south side, has Al Fahidi, the Textile Souk, Al Seef and the Meena Bazaar restaurants, and is slightly quieter. The abra joins them in a few minutes, so you will see both whichever side you sleep on.
What should I wear in Old Dubai?
Shoulders and knees covered is the polite standard in the souks and the lanes, for men and women; light cotton or linen, comfortable walking shoes and a hat for the afternoon. Swimwear-style clothing belongs on the beach. Women who plan to step into a mosque should carry a scarf. The rules are looser than at the Grand Mosque and stricter than at JBR.
Is Old Dubai safe at night?
Yes. Dubai is one of the safest big cities for tourists and petty crime is rare, including in the souks after dark, when the lanes are busiest and best. The usual cautions apply: use pedestrian crossings on the busy Deira roads, drink water, and take taxis from the ranks or through an app rather than from touts. Solo women walk the Creek lanes in the evening without trouble.
Can I stay in Old Dubai and still do the desert safari and the Abu Dhabi tour?
Yes. Both include hotel pickup and drop-off across Dubai, so a Deira or Bur Dubai hotel works: the desert safari collects you in a 4x4 and reaches the Lahbab dunes in 45-60 minutes, and the Abu Dhabi tour picks up at 8:00 AM. Neither needs prepayment; you agree the date and pickup time on WhatsApp and pay on the day.
Recommended Dubai tours for this guide
Full-Day Desert Safari in Dubai
It is the slow-travel version of the classic safari: more time on the dunes, sunset without the crowds and a full evening programme at a premium camp with air-conditioned tents, unlimited drinks and a large BBQ buffet with vegetarian and gluten-free options. Everything is arranged from the hotel door — a licensed English-speaking driver, the 4x4, the camp and the shows.
- Duration
- 7 hours
- Area
- Lahbab Desert, Dubai
- Format
- Full-day desert safari
- Best for
- families, couples and first-time desert visitors who want the full evening programme
From $45 per person No prepayment
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Abu Dhabi City Tour from Dubai
It is the classic capital day in one organised loop: the mosque before the midday heat and crowds, the newly opened BAPS Mandir, the skyline from the Corniche, Bedouin history at Heritage Village and a photo op at Ferrari World. Transport, a licensed guide, mosque registration assistance and bottled water are included; the $45 shared tour covers all free-entry sites, and a private VIP car for up to 7 people is $245.
- Duration
- 9 hours
- Area
- Abu Dhabi, UAE
- Format
- Full-day guided city tour (shared or private)
- Best for
- families, seniors and first-time visitors who want the capital's landmarks in one day
From $45 per person No prepayment
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Dubai Marina Shared Yacht Tour
It is the most stylish way to see the skyline without paying for a private charter: a premium yacht with spacious decks and 5-star hospitality, a red carpet at the pier and the crew helping with photos against JBR and Ain Dubai. Full pre-payment secures your slot — the hourly departures sell out — and the yacht leaves strictly on time.
- Duration
- 1 hour
- Area
- Dubai Marina
- Format
- Shared 1-hour sightseeing cruise
- Best for
- families, couples and anyone who wants the Marina skyline from the water without a private charter
From $32 per person Full prepayment
View tour📚 Keep reading
Photos: The Textile Souk and the abra station — trolvag, CC BY-SA 3.0, The Gold Souk — Radosław Botev, CC BY 3.0 pl, The Spice Souk — Guilhem Vellut from Annecy, France, CC BY 2.0, Al Seef — Poorva90, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons).