Eat breakfast in the Al Fahidi lanes, snacks and cheap plates in Meena Bazaar and around the Deira souks, and dinner on the Creek at Al Seef. Old Dubai is the cheapest and most local place to eat in the city: shawarma and a drink for AED 10-25, a cafeteria plate for AED 15-25, an Emirati sit-down meal for about AED 80-160. This guide goes street by street on both banks, with Green Line stops, and shows when a guided food walk, from $35, is easier.
By SB Excursions · Published 29 October 2026 · Updated 29 October 2026
Tour on this route: Old Dubai Walking Tour — From $35 per person, 3-4 hours.
Where is the best place to eat in Old Dubai?
It depends on the meal. Eat breakfast in the Al Fahidi lanes (about AED 80-160 for a sit-down Emirati meal), cheap plates in Meena Bazaar (AED 15-25), shawarma around the Deira souks (AED 10-25) and dinner on the Creek at Al Seef.
This guide also answers:
- How much does it cost to eat in Old Dubai?
- How do I get to Old Dubai restaurants by Metro?
- Is the Old Dubai walking tour a good way to try the food?
Five eating areas in Old Dubai
#1
Al Fahidi lanes (Bur Dubai)
The restored houses hold courtyard cafés that serve Emirati breakfast trays, luqaimat and Arabic coffee, and the lanes are shaded and calm. Arabian Tea House, for balaleet and other trays, and Local House, a long-standing older house with a camel burger on the menu, are well-known names. Come in the morning and check hours before you go.
#2
Al Seef: dinner on the Creek
The lantern-lit promenade is where Old Dubai has dinner. Al Fanar has a branch here serving Emirati dishes, and a terrace at Canopy by Hilton looks over the Creek. Prices are higher than in the cafeterias a few streets inland, so treat it as the sit-down meal of the day. Come at dusk, when the abras and dhows pass.
#3
Meena Bazaar and Bur Dubai side streets
Cafeterias in the streets behind the Textile Souk sell biryani, parathas, samosas and karak, usually AED 15-25 for a plate and a few dirhams for a snack. Al Ustad Special Kabab, near Sharaf DG, is an old favourite for Persian kebab. Rooms are plain and quick, and many stay open late. Check the menu board for the price.
#4
Al Ras and the Deira souks
Counters and bakeries around the Gold and Spice Souks sell shawarma, falafel, fresh juice and bakery snacks, usually AED 10-25 for a roll and a drink. It is busy and loud from the late afternoon, and standing at the counter is part of the experience. A sit-down meal needs a walk to Naif Road or Baniyas Square.
#5
Naif Road and the Deira Creek front
Naif Road and Baniyas Square are lined with Arab, Pakistani and Indian restaurants and bakeries that stay open late, and the Creek front has hotel restaurants with water views. It is less polished than Al Seef and more local. Cross by abra from Bur Dubai, for AED 1-2, and walk up from the water.
Where to eat in Old Dubai: the short answer
Eat breakfast in the Al Fahidi lanes, a snack or a cheap plate on the streets behind the souks, and dinner on the Creek at Al Seef. Old Dubai is the part of the city where you can eat well for very little: shawarma and a drink for about AED 10-25, a cafeteria plate for AED 15-25, a karak for a few dirhams. A sit-down Emirati meal in a heritage house is about AED 80-160 per person, and Al Seef costs a little more.
Old Dubai is two banks of Dubai Creek. Bur Dubai, on the south bank, has Al Fahidi, the Textile Souk, Meena Bazaar and Al Seef. Deira, on the north bank, has the Gold and Spice Souks, Naif Road and Baniyas Square. The Green Line of the Metro serves both, and an abra crosses between them for AED 1-2. Our Old Dubai guide has the sights; this one has the food.
The honest limits: most places here do not serve alcohol, menus and opening hours change, and the heat from May to September makes the pavement a poor place to eat at midday. Prices below are rounded and approximate, and the menu board on the day is the one to trust.
Old Dubai by street: what to eat and where
Use this table to match your appetite to a street. The Metro column is the nearest Green Line station, and station sponsor names change, so follow the area names.
| Street or area | What to eat | Rough cost | Metro |
|---|---|---|---|
| Al Fahidi lanes, Bur Dubai | Emirati breakfast trays, luqaimat, Arabic coffee in courtyard cafés | About AED 80-160 sit-down; less for breakfast | Sharaf DG |
| Al Seef promenade | Creek-side dinner, Emirati and Mediterranean menus | Higher than the cafeterias; check the menu | Sharaf DG, then walk |
| Sharaf DG and Al Hamriya | Persian kebab, rice and grilled meat | Mid-range; check the menu | Sharaf DG |
| Meena Bazaar and the Textile Souk | Biryani, parathas, samosas, karak | AED 15-25 a plate | Al Ghubaiba, BurJuman |
| Al Ras and the Deira souks | Shawarma, falafel, juice, bakery snacks | AED 10-25 a roll and a drink | Al Ras |
| Naif Road and Baniyas Square | Arab, Pakistani and Indian restaurants and bakeries | Cheap to mid-range | Baniyas Square, Union |
Approximate. Menus, opening hours and prices change, so check the board or the restaurant before you go.
Bur Dubai: Al Fahidi, Al Seef and Meena Bazaar
Start in the Al Fahidi lanes, beside Sharaf DG station. The restored coral-and-gypsum houses hold courtyard cafés, and morning is the best time: the lanes are cool, the light is soft and Emirati breakfast is on the menu. Balaleet, sweet vermicelli with an omelette, comes at Arabian Tea House and similar places, and our guide to Emirati food explains the dishes. The Al Fahidi district guide maps the lanes.
Walk ten minutes to Al Seef, where the Creek-side promenade has Emirati and Mediterranean restaurants under lanterns. Al Fanar has a branch here, and Canopy by Hilton has a terrace on the water. It is the one place in this guide where you pay for the setting, so it suits dinner rather than lunch. The Al Seef guide goes further.
Behind the Textile Souk, Meena Bazaar and the side streets are where residents eat. Indian and Pakistani cafeterias serve biryani, parathas and samosas, usually at AED 15-25 a plate, with karak tea for a few dirhams. Al Ustad Special Kabab, near Sharaf DG, is a long-running Persian kebab restaurant. Look for a busy room and a menu with prices on the wall, then go early, because the cafeterias fill in the first hour after sunset.
Deira: Al Ras, Naif Road and the Creek front
Cross the Creek by abra, which costs AED 1-2 and takes a few minutes, and the Spice Souk and Gold Souk are a short walk away. The streets around them are lined with shawarma counters, falafel stalls, juice bars and bakeries, and a roll with a drink costs about AED 10-25. Eat standing up or on a stool, and finish with a fresh juice. Our street food guide lists what to order and what it costs.
For a sit-down meal, walk to Naif Road or Baniyas Square, where Arab, Pakistani and Indian restaurants stay open late. It is less polished than Al Seef and more local, and the food is cheap. The Deira side of the Creek also has hotel restaurants with water views and licensed bars, which are the only places in Old Dubai where alcohol is regularly served. Which bank suits you for a stay is in Deira vs Bur Dubai.
Sweets finish an Old Dubai meal. Luqaimat, kunafa and Umm Ali are sold in cafés, bakeries and dessert shops on both banks, and our Arabic desserts guide says what each one is.
When to go, what to wear and how to order
Go in the late afternoon from October to April, when the lanes are pleasant and the cafeterias are busy, and in the morning from May to September. At midday in summer, eat indoors. Friday mornings are slow, with many shops opening only in the afternoon. In Ramadan, many counters close or serve discreetly in the daytime, and iftar is the busy hour.
Dress for walking and for modest company: shoulders and knees covered, comfortable shoes. Carry small notes, because some counters take only cash. Order a little at a time and share; portions are generous. Eat with your right hand, and ask before you photograph people or their food.
- Alcohol: rare outside licensed hotels, so plan on juice, tea and coffee.
- Halal: food at cafeterias and counters is halal, and pork is not served.
- Vegetarian: falafel, samosas, dal, bread and salads are easy to find.
- Allergies: nuts, sesame, gluten and dairy are common, so tell the kitchen.
Eating with a guide: the Old Dubai walk
If you would rather not choose, our Old Dubai walking tour is a shared group walk of 3-4 hours with an English-speaking local guide. It starts in Al Fahidi near Sharaf DG station, crosses the Creek by abra and ends at the Gold Souk. The $35 price includes the abra, Arabic coffee or tea, dates and water; $55 adds Emirati street-food tastings. The Old Dubai food tour guide lists the stops.
Full prepayment confirms your place, and the meeting pin follows after payment. Free cancellation or a date change is possible up to 24 hours before the start. The tastings contain gluten and dairy and may contain sesame and nuts, so tell us about allergies when you book. It is mostly outdoors, so wear comfortable shoes and light clothes; May to September is very hot.
Getting there, and what to do after the meal
Take the Green Line. Sharaf DG serves Al Fahidi and Al Seef, Al Ghubaiba the Textile Souk and the abra, and Al Ras the Gold Souk; our Metro guide covers the Nol card and the change at BurJuman or Union. The abra ride guide explains the crossing.
For a different Dubai after an Old Dubai morning, the Burj Khalifa tickets start from $55, and the shared yacht tour in Dubai Marina, from $32, leaves hourly. Both need a Metro ride across the city, so give them an evening, not the same afternoon.
FAQ
Where is the best place to eat in Old Dubai?
It depends on the meal. Eat breakfast in the Al Fahidi lanes (about AED 80-160 for a sit-down Emirati meal), cheap plates in Meena Bazaar (AED 15-25), shawarma around the Deira souks (AED 10-25) and dinner on the Creek at Al Seef.
How much does it cost to eat in Old Dubai?
A snack or karak costs a few dirhams, a roll with a drink about AED 10-25, a cafeteria plate AED 15-25 and an Emirati sit-down meal about AED 80-160. Al Seef is more expensive. Prices are rounded and change.
Is Old Dubai good for vegetarians?
Yes. Falafel, vegetable samosas, dal, hummus, bread and Indian vegetarian cafeterias are easy to find, and Emirati breakfast dishes such as balaleet and regag are vegetarian. Tell the kitchen about nuts, sesame and dairy.
Can you drink alcohol in Old Dubai?
Rarely. Most cafeterias and heritage cafés do not serve it, and only licensed hotel restaurants and bars do. Our alcohol laws guide covers the rules.
What is the best time to eat in Old Dubai?
The late afternoon and evening from October to April, and the morning from May to September. Friday mornings are slow, and in Ramadan many counters close in the daytime.
How do I get to Old Dubai restaurants by Metro?
Use the Green Line. Sharaf DG serves Al Fahidi and Al Seef, Al Ghubaiba the Textile Souk and the abra, and Al Ras the Deira souks. An abra between the banks costs AED 1-2.
Is the Old Dubai walking tour a good way to try the food?
Yes, if you want a guide and a route. The walk is 3-4 hours, from $35 with Arabic coffee or tea, dates and the abra, or $55 with street-food tastings. Full prepayment confirms your place, with free cancellation up to 24 hours before.
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Photos: Al Seef: dinner on the Creek — Poorva90, CC BY-SA 4.0, Meena Bazaar and Bur Dubai side streets — trolvag, CC BY-SA 3.0, Al Ras and the Deira souks — Radosław Botev, CC BY 3.0 pl (Wikimedia Commons).